December 3, 2008 | Short Order

        The new John Dory sailed into all the elements of a perfect storm Tuesday night. A tornado of critics boarded all at once: Times' Florence Fabricant settled a table away from Insatiable moi. A bare-shouldered Danyelle Freeman, restaurant critic at The Daily News, looking vaguely Tahitian, sat tête a tête with an unknown admirer. Then Ruth Reichl skipped in with a reservation that hadn’t quite made it into the book. “She probably told April (Bloomberg) she was coming,” Ken Friedman reasoned. “April is a wonderful cook but she can’t do her own laundry.”  Yet with newly slim and dapper partner Joe Bastianich sipping wine, exuding calm, waltzing attendance, the Spotted Pig crew juggled the overload of pointed forks with only a few drops of sweat. I probably missed any number of Yelpers and anonymous gullets. Forgive me.

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